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Any discussion of French culture must
inevitably turn to food. France is a nation that takes its cuisine very
seriously—from the meticulous and delicate techniques involved in its
preparation to the rare, often exotic, ingredients used to make
signature dishes.
Chef Jacky Robert, one of only 200
Maitres Cuisinier de France in the world, has likely forgotten more of
his French cuisine training than most chefs will ever know. Following
the advice of his father, Robert first arrived in Boston from France in
1972, aspiring to make his name as a chef, and found himself at the
vanguard of a movement that turned Boston diners onto Gallic grub during
a stint at his uncle Lucien’s legendary establishment, Maison Robert.
Since then, he’s owned restaurants in
California, returned to Maison Robert in the late 1990s, spent
2001–2003 as executive chef at another landmark Boston eatery, Locke-Ober,
and last year opened his newest venture, the upscale yet casual Petit
Robert Bistro (Kenmore Square, 468 Commonwealth Ave., 617-375-0699)
which has drawn praise for its more relaxed take on classic haute
cuisine. Recently, he spoke with Panorama about how French dining in
Boston has evolved over three decades.
PANORAMA:
When you first came to work in Boston, the city was still heavily into
eating beans and cod. What was the climate like for French cuisine at
that time?
JACKY ROBERT: Pretty much the big
competition then was the Ritz-Carlton and Locke-Ober. There were a few
French chefs (in town), but soon it seemed like any restaurant that
wanted to get on the map needed a French chef to do so.
P:
How does that compare to the scene today?
JR: I don’t know how many actual
French chefs are in Boston anymore. [For two decades] cooking schools
have been creating a new breed of “American French” chefs. So,
today, Boston has people like Lydia Shire, Gordon Hamersley, Ken Oringer—Americans
who have been to France and have studied French cuisine.
P:
What effect has this “Americanization” of French cooking had on the
cuisine itself?
JR: I think French cuisine is alive
and well thanks to these Americans who have changed it. Where French
chefs remain quite conservative, American chefs are very creative. They
put no restrictions on themselves, and feel comfortable mixing in Latin
American and Asian elements. And they’re very well-regarded
internationally for that creativity.
P:
What are the biggest misconceptions that diners have about French
cuisine?
JR: There’s several. There’s the
myth that French cuisine has to be expensive…that it has to be made
with “heavy” sauces, and that every establishment has a dress code.
There’s also a fear by diners that all French restaurants write their
menus all in French—people seem worried they won’t understand what
they’re eating.
P:
Did those misconceptions inspire the concept of Petit Robert Bistro?
JR: Absolutely. We wanted to open
the most affordable, casual French restaurant in Boston. There’s a $20
line that we don’t want to go above for any dish. We write everything
in English, so the place is accessible to everyone. That’s given us a
blend of customers, from college students in shorts to business people
in suits.
P:
Where do you see the future of French cuisine going?
JR: Fine dining restaurants will
always be there, but today less people can afford them. So, I think the
trend will be to do fine dining without the expense…and to hopefully
open the doors of French restaurants to a younger generation of diners.
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